Summer Trip 2024 - Wrap Up

Once again, we used our Winnebago Travato camper van as a heat/humidity escape pod from DFW. Our plan was a 5-week route through NM and CO to escape some of the summer heat. We departed on Monday, July 8th and returned home on Saturday, August 10th. Obviously, we didn’t stay long enough, because it was still hot and humid on our return home - but at least we had a nice break.

Summer 2024 Trip Route

We threw in a mix of old favorite locations and some new places. I didn’t write very many blogs this time, but I did cover a couple of areas in detail (many photos on each post):
Jemez Mountains
Maroon Bells and Buckskin Pass Hike 

A few other favorite photos:

Molas Lake, CO

Ice Lake, CO

Beark Creek Falls

Cornet Creek Falls

Colorado National Monument

Rifle Falls

Hanging Lake

Independence Pass

Great Sand Dunes NP

Rio Grade at Del Norte Monument

We had no major issues on the trip. Elena, Bebop, and I travel well together, and it's a pleasure to spend time with them.

Here’s the data summary for our trip:
Days on the road: 34
Miles Driven: 2,961 miles
Average miles/day: 87
Time Driving: 70.5 hours
Avg Speed: 41 mph
MPG: 17.1 (vehicle calc); 16.3 (actual)
Gas Used: 175 gallons, average of 5.2 gallons/day
Gas Cost: $566 ($17/day) - avg of $3.23/gallon 

Updated data is posted here: https://enerjazz.com/travato/

- Paul

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Maroon Bells and Buckskin Pass

We scored three nights at a rare campsite inside the Maroon Bells wilderness area. Being inside the gate allows you to come and go to Maroon Lake as you please, and we would just drive down to the lake parking lot before dawn and stay there until sunset each day.

The Maroon Bells at sunrise

Eight years ago, when I was about 13% younger, and in at least 20% better shape, I hiked Buckskin Pass in the Maroon Bells wilderness. It’s about a 10-mile round trip, with a 3,000-foot elevation gain all the way up to 12,470 feet of elevation. The pass is taller than the tallest mountain in 38 of the states. It was one of the more difficult hikes I've done. Remember how at the end of the original Rocky movie, Apollo says “Ain’t going to be no rematch,” and Rocky says “I don’t want one.”  Then they fought again later anyway. I decided to hike it again, even though I probably said "no rematch" eight years ago. Also, my daughter went there on a solo hiking trip in June, but had to turn back before the top due to deep snow. I told her I would finish the hike for her.

This time I knew what I was up against. I remembered how hard it was last time. But I also remembered that it’s probably the most beautiful mountain view I've ever seen - if you can make it to the pass. JFK said, “We do these things not because they are easy, but because they are difficult.” I’ll note he didn’t say that while climbing a mountain. I just wanted to see that view again, so off I went.

I departed at 6:30AM when the temperature was a crisp 41ºF, but started peeling off layers like a bawdy stripper before I finished the first mile. When the very vertical section hit, I remembered struggling eight years ago, and stopping often. This time I got into a rhythm that worked for my legs, lungs, and heart - and I was able to keep a slow, but steady pace. It was so peaceful and quiet, all I could hear was my heart beating. I saw no other people for at least 2 hours. The only wildlife I saw was a Pika. There were dappled wildflowers all along the trail, and they all seemed to be either looking at me, or holding their petals up in the air and cheering me on. Also, the sun was at my back, so they might have just been looking that way. Either way, it helped. A few creek crossings also provided a needed enjoyable distraction.

The cute Pika

Encouraging flowers

The air got thinner as I ascended - there’s about 11% less oxygen at 12,000 feet vs 9,000 feet. So much thinner, that I think this sign really meant that there wasn’t enough oxygen to support a flame. 

Low oxygen environment

Just before I left the treeline, I stopped to have a little snack break and finally saw another person come past. After my break, I moved up into the open wildflower meadow. Now, instead of scattered flowers, there was a blanket of flowers. 

The destination and the wildflower meadow

And I looked up to see the switchbacks - almost 1,000 feet for the final push. I could see the destination, which was good, but I could also see how high I had to climb to reach it. The sun was now up enough to produce some sweat, despite the mild temperature. I stopped to catch my breath each time I turned at a switchback. The air was getting very thin. Finally, I made the last turn, and ascended to the saddle in right at 3 hours. Five miles and 3,000 vertical feet. The view to the west was even more beautiful than I remembered. 

I made it!

Mountains to the west of Buckskin Pass

 

Relaxing at Buckskin Pass

The view back to the east of Pyramid. I was above the snow.

I sat down and pulled out some food and enjoyed the best turkey and cheese sandwich I ever ate. The wind began picking up at the saddle. It was coming from the west, and it was cold enough I had to put some layers back on. I watched about 15 backpackers making their way up from the lake to the west. They climbed up and took a break at the pass. I intended to stay about an hour, but at 50 minutes I noticed they were preparing to head down, so I started down just ahead of them. 

The view down was great as the sun began to illuminate Pyramid Peak to the east. 

Pyramid Peak and wildflowers

I took a short detour to visit Crater Lake on my way back down. Then I was back where I started at Maroon Lake.

Crater Lake

Maroon Bells

Here’s my climb and heart rate data.

I’m happy to report no soreness the next day. I got up early and went looking for wildlife around Maroon Lake. In the first 30 yards on the trail I saw fresh wet bear tracks crossing my path. It had crossed from the creek into the aspen trees. I stopped for a bit of looking, but didn’t see it. Then I saw a young moose moving quickly across the meadow ahead. I caught a photo when it stopped to graze.

Meadow Moose

The moose crossed the trail in front of me, entered the lake, and grazed next to the beaver lodge. I had seen the beaver out the evening before swimming and eating. The moose went around the bend of the lake out of sight. I walked down to the area near beaver lodge and stopped, looked, and listened for about 10 minutes. I decided to cautiously proceed down the trail to the bridge, taking one step at a time, followed by a stop, look, and listen. At the bridge and looked around, but didn’t see the moose. A minute later, I turned around, and it was on the trail behind me staring at me with an expression of “You’re in my spot.” I quickly moved across the bridge and the moose crossed the creek in the water, while I moved back across the bridge. It grazed a bit more and headed off into the meadow and trees. That was my episode of “Dances with Moose."

Beaver

Find the moose in each panel

Elena hiked to Crater Lake and saw a fox trying to get handouts from everyone. Later in the day, a fox was in the parking lot next to our camper van. On the last night I finally saw a black bear a bit up the hillside.

Parking lot attendant fox

Black bear

Overall, it was a relaxing 3 days at the Maroon Bells. We were off the grid and taking in the beautiful wildlife and weather. Took one more photo on the last morning before we departed.

Maroon Bells at sunrise

- Paul

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Jemez Mountains and Valles Caldera

On day three of our summer 2024 trip, we visited Coronado Historic Site (why do we often name places after the invaders). It’s the site of the once thriving Kuaua Pueblo, until Coronado’s expedition showed up. Coronado was searching for the rumored Seven Gold Cities, but all he kept finding were thriving native cultures - which it could be argued were the actual riches he was seeking. This arrival, which brought diseases and attempted rule, eventually led to the abandonment of many Pueblos. A square Kiva on this site has walls adorned probably the finest pre-Columbian art yet discovered. We were able to climb down into the Kiva to view it.

We only travelled about 40 miles this day, but that distance took us into the beautiful Jemez Mountains, to our $5/night campground along the Jemez River, and out of cell range. Finally, a day to relax and unwind. Our campground (Vista Linda) was nestled in the red rock valley along the Jemez River. I waded, Elena sat, and Bebop swam a little in the refreshing water. The heat dome in the west had their temperature into the low 90s, so the water felt great. 

Our Vista Linda campsite. Views and playing in the Jemez River.

An afternoon mountain thunderstorm quickly cooled it into the 70s, so we drove up to the historic Gilman Tunnels. The Guadeloupe River cut a vertical canyon through the 1.6 billion-year-old granite, and about 100 years ago humans cut a path for a railroad through the granite. It was originally built to carry timber down from the upper elevations of the mountains - first via rail, then paved for logging trucks. Now it’s a scenic road.

The Gilman Tunnels - some major granite carving

The next morning we went to the Walatowa Visitor Center. Walatowa, in the language of the Jemez Pueblo, means “this is the place.” We hiked to a beautiful slot canyon that morning and had the place to ourselves. Bebop chased many lizards. This is a beautiful and accessible slot canyon, and I’m grateful the Jemez nation has laid out a hiking trail and allowed us to visit.

Walatowa Slot Canyon

Walatowa Slot Canyon

We passed through Jemez Springs, and stopped at the Soda Dam. This travertine mound was formed by the many hot springs in the area, depositing layers of calcium carbonate. Around 1970, road crews blasted a path for a road through it and disrupted the spring that built it. Now it’s slowly disintegrating. The river has cut a slot through the bottom, and it’s a nice area to play in the cool water.

Soda Dam

Next we visited the Las Conchas trail for a nice hike along the East Fork of the Jemez River. We then drove to the rim pullouts at Valles Caldera. This area was formed by a massive eruption and lava dome collapse about 1.2 million years ago. We sat watching the storms drift over the verdant valley. A bit of small hail fell from one cloud. We saw an very large herd of elk moving across the valley floor.

Las Conchas Trail

Valles Caldera and Elk Herd

The area along NM highway 4 has a great variety of scenery, terrain, and interesting places to visit. 

 

- Paul

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Return Home from Crested Butte & Trip Summary

We departed Crested Butte and headed south with a few stops planned on the road home from the Mountain Words Festival (see blog). On our way out, we stopped at this fence for a quick photo of the clear sky and snow capped mountains.

South edge of Crested Butte, CO

We made our way down to Penitente Canyon. This is on the western side of the wide San Luis Valley in southern Colorado. It's across the valley from Great Sand Dunes National Park. Penitente Caynon's rocks were volcanic in origin and associated with the San Juan volcanic field and the collapse of a caldera 20 million years ago. The area is popular with rock climbers. Our campsite was tucked into the rocks, similar to a spot we had a Joshua Tree a few years ago.

Camper van tucked into the rocks

We hiked the Penitente Canyon loop trail through, and up above the rocks. There are pictographs in the area, including one at the trailhead.

Hiking into Pentitente Canyon, CO

When the rocks look back at you. Look up Bebop!

Up above the canyon with a great view of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the distance

Pictograph at the trailhead

We followed the Rio Grande south and camped along the river in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area at the Rio Bravo campground. This is a bit southwest of Taos, NM. We hiked a few trails - one overlooking, and one along, the Rio Pueblo de Taos.

Along the Rio Grande

Bebop enjoys a swim in the Rio Grande

Flowers along the Rio Pueblo de Taos

Overlook at the Rio Pueblo de Taos

Next, we made our way south to Santa Rosa Lake State Park. Similar to many western areas we've visited in recent years, climate change is taking a toll on the water level. It was less of a lake and more of a large brown puddle. The campground was nice, and we took a hike along the (former) lake edge trail. That evening we had threatening clouds, but the rain missed us. The storm became tornadic about an hour later.

Storm forming overhead

Sunset clouds

The drive becomes pretty dull after that as we made our way toward Lubbock to visit Elena's mom. We monitored the weather, as Texas has been repeatedly pounded by storms while we were gone, and they were forecast to pop up near Lubbock again. We avoided the heavy storms and made our way to Lubbock, then back to the DFW area. 

Trip Data Summary:

Miles Driven: 1,933 miles

Average miles/day: 193

Time Driving: 39 hours

Avg Speed: 49 mph

MPG: 17.6 (vehicle calc); 16.8 (actual)

Gas Used:  115 gallons, average of 11.5 gallons/day

Gas Cost: $355 ($35/day) - avg of $3.09/gallon

- Paul

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Mountain Words Festival in Crested Butte, CO

Elena wanted to attend the Mountain Words Festival in Crested Butte, CO over the Memorial Day weekend, so we loaded up the camper van and planned a 10-day trip there.

The first day was a long drive day - our longest yet at 540 miles. It got us through Texas (just ahead of a some bad storms) and to the Sierra Grande rest stop in New Mexico. Sierra Grande is the tallest extinct volcano in New Mexico at 8,723 feet.

That left us with about 325 miles to drive the next day - mostly up and down mountains. It was a pretty day, and we enjoyed some beautiful scenery along the way. We had lunch along the Arkansas River. We stopped at Monarch Pass (11,312 feet) and Bebop found out that a deep snow pile would not support her weight. 

Elena and Paul near Westcliffe, CO

Our lunch spot along the Arkansas River

Monarch Pass - Bebop is playing king of the snow hill

We arrived in Crested Butte by mid-afternoon and settled into our campsite, less than three miles from downtown. 

Our camper van is dwarfed by the mountains

There was a free event the first night. Rebeca Boyle gave a talk about her book "Our Moon: How Earth's Celestial Companion Transformed the Planet, Guided Evolution, and Made Us Who We Are." I'm a science nerd and know a lot about the moon, but she opened up some new and interesting areas of thought about our orbital companion. Here's a review link. Book link.

That evening, a cold rain moved in, and it turned to snow overnight. Very light at our campground, but the hills above us had a fresh white coating the next morning. That morning, Elena had booked a geology Jeep tour. We were unable to go up into the mountains due to the overnight snow, so we headed a bit south and viewed and discussed the local geology from there.

Geology tour overlook

Elena attended the festival for the remainder of the day, while Bebop and I hiked around various local trails. Bebop found a few sticks to chew.

Stick transporter

Stick shredder - that's Crested Butte in the back

That evening, we attended another free talk by Kevin Fedarco, author of "The Emerald Mile: The Epic Story of the Fastest Ride in History Through the Heart of the Grand Canyon." Book Link.  He has a new book out called "A Walk in the Park: The True Story of a Spectacular Misadventure in the Grand Canyon." Book link. His talk covered both books and featured some spectacular photos and video clips.

Kevin and his friend, National Geographic photographer Pete McBride, set out to hike the entire length of the Grand Canyon. It's 277 miles on the river, but due to the difficulty of finding your own hiking path in the heart of the canyon, it became a 750 mile, year long hike. This could have ended as one of those stories of how people died in the Grand Canyon. But instead, he returned with new wisdom and even more reverence for our wild, natural spaces. He met with members of native tribes who have lived in and around the canyon for 10,000 or more years. He saw signs of their minimal impact habitation. And he saw the threats - from the Hualapai skywalk and helicopter tours, to the proposed tourist tram to the confluence of the Little Colorado. He also heard the wisdom of the people who have been stewards of the canyon - and that we should listen to, and learn from, them.

Kevin said in the dark of night the river was below and the river of stars was overhead. One of the things he most remembered was the silence, and how we've lost that in our modern world. And probably the biggest lesson was that we shouldn't just protect the Grand Canyon, but all the natural wild and beautiful places that have somehow managed to evade our constant encroachment and development. The canyon can make people seem insignificant, yet people wield great power to destroy these amazing places.

On our final full day, Bebop and enjoyed an 8-mile hike and some great scenery. It was mostly flat - only about 500 feet of elevation gain.

Crested Butte

Bebop on the trail. The snowy mountains blend into the clouds.

Paul on the trail

- Paul

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