Thursday, November 21, 2024

Big Bend Big Blog

We started a 24-day fall tour on Nov 15th. 
 
Fall 2024 Trip Route
The first destination was Big Bend National Park. We broke the 600-mile drive into two days. At one of our stretch breaks, we stopped at a park in Early, TX. They had a really cool Sound Garden with a variety of items to make music with.
Sound Garden Park in Early, TX
The halfway stop was San Angelo State Park where we had a nice quiet campsite. We also got to view their bison herd from a distance.
Bison at San Angelo State Park
Day two took us into the park. Big Bend NP has three different campgrounds. On the east side is Rio Grande Village. On the west is Cottonwood. In the middle, and at a higher elevation, is the Chisos Basin.

We were in Rio Grande Village for the first two nights. Before going to our campsite, we headed straight for the hot spring and Rio Grande. The natural spring, which was a resort early last century, is now part of the park. It’s a perfect temperature - probably about 102ºF. The river water temperature was very mild as well - in the 80s. The air temperature was near 90ºF, so it was a great afternoon to be in the water. We spent about an hour soaking and swimming, then headed to our campsite in the Rio Grande Village. The nearly full moon rose over the mountains that evening.
Natural Hot Springs in Big Bend along the Rio Grande
Sunset on the Boquillas
The next day started cloudy with temperatures in the 60s. It stayed in the 70s for most of the day - very nice hiking weather. I hiked the nature trail next to our campsite up to the overlook to watch the sunrise - which was mostly behind the clouds. I watched several cows scale up the hills to eat cactus pads. Back at the campsite, a roadrunner stopped by for a visit. We took the short drive to the Boquillas Canyon Trail and hiked into the mouth of this sheer wall canyon.
Sunrise in Big Bend
Chisos Mountains in the distance

Cow eating Prickly Pear (the kind without spikes)
Roadrunner at our campsite
Boquillas Canyon
We hiked back up the nature trail at sunset for a nice view of the mountains to the east.
Another lovely sunset in Big Bend
The next morning, I hiked up the nature trail once again for a clear view of sunrise. It cooled off overnight, with temperatures in the 50s. We would have beautiful clear skies with cold nights and mild days for the rest of our Big Bend visit.
Sunrise hits the Chisos Mountains
Sunrise hits the Rio Grande
The next morning we drove up to the Chisos Basin. On our way out, we saw six different roadrunners along the highway. Then we saw a coyote near a pullout. When we slowed down, it began coming toward the van. We turned into the pullout, and it came up to the van and sat there like it was waiting for a handout. Bebop saw it and started barking, but it was not concerned. It definitely has developed some roadside begging skills.
A very wily coyote asking for food at a pullout
In the basin, we hiked to The Window. The Window is a drainage channel for the basin, and the periodic stream has carved many interesting rock features over the years. The wind was blowing so hard through the gap that if you slipped and fell off, it’s likely the wind would have pushed you back up on the ledge. We were the only people there. You could see for well over 100 miles thanks to the clear skies.
The hike down to The Window
The Window
Elena & Paul at The Window (where it was windy)
The next morning we hiked the Basin Loop trail, then hiked the Lost Mine Trail. Both were great hikes. We drove down to Cottonwood Campground near Santa Elena Canyon, with the obligatory stop at the Mule Ears viewpoint. It was a clear, calm night, which was excellent for stargazing.
Lost Nine trail (not lost mind!)
Mule Ears - who wore them best?
Dark skies - many stars
The overnight temperature dropped to 35 degrees F. The next morning started with a gang invasion of our campground. Nine collared peccary came grazing through next to our van. We headed up to the Tuff Canyon hike in the morning, then hiked into Santa Elena Canyon in the afternoon. It was a perfect day, with highs in the 70s.
Visit from some collard peccary
Tuff canyon
Santa Elena Canyon with Elena
After another crisp night, we drove out to the metropolis of Terlingua, TX.

- Paul

 


Sunday, August 11, 2024

Summer Trip 2024 - Wrap Up

Once again, we used our Winnebago Travato camper van as a heat/humidity escape pod from DFW. Our plan was a 5-week route through NM and CO to escape some of the summer heat. We departed on Monday, July 8th and returned home on Saturday, August 10th. Obviously, we didn’t stay long enough, because it was still hot and humid on our return home - but at least we had a nice break.

Summer 2024 Trip Route
We threw in a mix of old favorite locations and some new places. I didn’t write very many blogs this time, but I did cover a couple of areas in detail (many photos on each post):
Jemez Mountains
Maroon Bells and Buckskin Pass Hike 

A few other favorite photos:

Molas Lake, CO

Ice Lake, CO

Beark Creek Falls

Cornet Creek Falls

Colorado National Monument

Rifle Falls

Hanging Lake

Independence Pass

Great Sand Dunes NP

Rio Grade at Del Norte Monument

We had no major issues on the trip. Elena, Bebop, and I travel well together, and it's a pleasure to spend time with them.

Here’s the data summary for our trip:
Days on the road: 34
Miles Driven: 2,961 miles
Average miles/day: 87
Time Driving: 70.5 hours
Avg Speed: 41 mph
MPG: 17.1 (vehicle calc); 16.3 (actual)
Gas Used: 175 gallons, average of 5.2 gallons/day
Gas Cost: $566 ($17/day) - avg of $3.23/gallon 

Updated data is posted here: https://enerjazz.com/travato/

- Paul

Thursday, August 1, 2024

Maroon Bells and Buckskin Pass

We scored three nights at a rare campsite inside the Maroon Bells wilderness area. Being inside the gate allows you to come and go to Maroon Lake as you please, and we would just drive down to the lake parking lot before dawn and stay there until sunset each day.

The Maroon Bells at sunrise
Eight years ago, when I was about 13% younger, and in at least 20% better shape, I hiked Buckskin Pass in the Maroon Bells wilderness. It’s about a 10-mile round trip, with a 3,000-foot elevation gain all the way up to 12,470 feet of elevation. The pass is taller than the tallest mountain in 38 of the states. It was one of the more difficult hikes I've done. Remember how at the end of the original Rocky movie, Apollo says “Ain’t going to be no rematch,” and Rocky says “I don’t want one.”  Then they fought again later anyway. I decided to hike it again, even though I probably said "no rematch" eight years ago. Also, my daughter went there on a solo hiking trip in June, but had to turn back before the top due to deep snow. I told her I would finish the hike for her.

This time I knew what I was up against. I remembered how hard it was last time. But I also remembered that it’s probably the most beautiful mountain view I've ever seen - if you can make it to the pass. JFK said, “We do these things not because they are easy, but because they are difficult.” I’ll note he didn’t say that while climbing a mountain. I just wanted to see that view again, so off I went.

I departed at 6:30AM when the temperature was a crisp 41ºF, but started peeling off layers like a bawdy stripper before I finished the first mile. When the very vertical section hit, I remembered struggling eight years ago, and stopping often. This time I got into a rhythm that worked for my legs, lungs, and heart - and I was able to keep a slow, but steady pace. It was so peaceful and quiet, all I could hear was my heart beating. I saw no other people for at least 2 hours. The only wildlife I saw was a Pika. There were dappled wildflowers all along the trail, and they all seemed to be either looking at me, or holding their petals up in the air and cheering me on. Also, the sun was at my back, so they might have just been looking that way. Either way, it helped. A few creek crossings also provided a needed enjoyable distraction.
The cute Pika

Encouraging flowers
The air got thinner as I ascended - there’s about 11% less oxygen at 12,000 feet vs 9,000 feet. So much thinner, that I think this sign really meant that there wasn’t enough oxygen to support a flame. 
Low oxygen environment
Just before I left the treeline, I stopped to have a little snack break and finally saw another person come past. After my break, I moved up into the open wildflower meadow. Now, instead of scattered flowers, there was a blanket of flowers. 
The destination and the wildflower meadow
And I looked up to see the switchbacks - almost 1,000 feet for the final push. I could see the destination, which was good, but I could also see how high I had to climb to reach it. The sun was now up enough to produce some sweat, despite the mild temperature. I stopped to catch my breath each time I turned at a switchback. The air was getting very thin. Finally, I made the last turn, and ascended to the saddle in right at 3 hours. Five miles and 3,000 vertical feet. The view to the west was even more beautiful than I remembered. 
I made it!
Mountains to the west of Buckskin Pass
 
Relaxing at Buckskin Pass

The view back to the east of Pyramid. I was above the snow.
I sat down and pulled out some food and enjoyed the best turkey and cheese sandwich I ever ate. The wind began picking up at the saddle. It was coming from the west, and it was cold enough I had to put some layers back on. I watched about 15 backpackers making their way up from the lake to the west. They climbed up and took a break at the pass. I intended to stay about an hour, but at 50 minutes I noticed they were preparing to head down, so I started down just ahead of them. 

The view down was great as the sun began to illuminate Pyramid Peak to the east. 
Pyramid Peak and wildflowers
I took a short detour to visit Crater Lake on my way back down. Then I was back where I started at Maroon Lake.
Crater Lake

Maroon Bells
Here’s my climb and heart rate data.
I’m happy to report no soreness the next day. I got up early and went looking for wildlife around Maroon Lake. In the first 30 yards on the trail I saw fresh wet bear tracks crossing my path. It had crossed from the creek into the aspen trees. I stopped for a bit of looking, but didn’t see it. Then I saw a young moose moving quickly across the meadow ahead. I caught a photo when it stopped to graze.
Meadow Moose
The moose crossed the trail in front of me, entered the lake, and grazed next to the beaver lodge. I had seen the beaver out the evening before swimming and eating. The moose went around the bend of the lake out of sight. I walked down to the area near beaver lodge and stopped, looked, and listened for about 10 minutes. I decided to cautiously proceed down the trail to the bridge, taking one step at a time, followed by a stop, look, and listen. At the bridge and looked around, but didn’t see the moose. A minute later, I turned around, and it was on the trail behind me staring at me with an expression of “You’re in my spot.” I quickly moved across the bridge and the moose crossed the creek in the water, while I moved back across the bridge. It grazed a bit more and headed off into the meadow and trees. That was my episode of “Dances with Moose."
Beaver

Find the moose in each panel
Elena hiked to Crater Lake and saw a fox trying to get handouts from everyone. Later in the day, a fox was in the parking lot next to our camper van. On the last night I finally saw a black bear a bit up the hillside.
Parking lot attendant fox

Black bear
Overall, it was a relaxing 3 days at the Maroon Bells. We were off the grid and taking in the beautiful wildlife and weather. Took one more photo on the last morning before we departed.
Maroon Bells at sunrise

- Paul