Friday, May 31, 2024

Return Home from Crested Butte & Trip Summary

We departed Crested Butte and headed south with a few stops planned on the road home from the Mountain Words Festival (see blog). On our way out, we stopped at this fence for a quick photo of the clear sky and snow capped mountains.

South edge of Crested Butte, CO
We made our way down to Penitente Canyon. This is on the western side of the wide San Luis Valley in southern Colorado. It's across the valley from Great Sand Dunes National Park. Penitente Caynon's rocks were volcanic in origin and associated with the San Juan volcanic field and the collapse of a caldera 20 million years ago. The area is popular with rock climbers. Our campsite was tucked into the rocks, similar to a spot we had a Joshua Tree a few years ago.
Camper van tucked into the rocks
We hiked the Penitente Canyon loop trail through, and up above the rocks. There are pictographs in the area, including one at the trailhead.
Hiking into Pentitente Canyon, CO
When the rocks look back at you. Look up Bebop!
Up above the canyon with a great view of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the distance
Pictograph at the trailhead

We followed the Rio Grande south and camped along the river in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area at the Rio Bravo campground. This is a bit southwest of Taos, NM. We hiked a few trails - one overlooking, and one along, the Rio Pueblo de Taos.

Along the Rio Grande

Bebop enjoys a swim in the Rio Grande
Flowers along the Rio Pueblo de Taos

Overlook at the Rio Pueblo de Taos
Next, we made our way south to Santa Rosa Lake State Park. Similar to many western areas we've visited in recent years, climate change is taking a toll on the water level. It was less of a lake and more of a large brown puddle. The campground was nice, and we took a hike along the (former) lake edge trail. That evening we had threatening clouds, but the rain missed us. The storm became tornadic about an hour later.
Storm forming overhead

Sunset clouds

The drive becomes pretty dull after that as we made our way toward Lubbock to visit Elena's mom. We monitored the weather, as Texas has been repeatedly pounded by storms while we were gone, and they were forecast to pop up near Lubbock again. We avoided the heavy storms and made our way to Lubbock, then back to the DFW area. 

Trip Data Summary:

Miles Driven: 1,933 miles
Average miles/day: 193
Time Driving: 39 hours
Avg Speed: 49 mph
MPG: 17.6 (vehicle calc); 16.8 (actual)
Gas Used:  115 gallons, average of 11.5 gallons/day
Gas Cost: $355 ($35/day) - avg of $3.09/gallon

- Paul

Sunday, May 26, 2024

Mountain Words Festival in Crested Butte, CO

Elena wanted to attend the Mountain Words Festival in Crested Butte, CO over the Memorial Day weekend, so we loaded up the camper van and planned a 10-day trip there.

The first day was a long drive day - our longest yet at 540 miles. It got us through Texas (just ahead of a some bad storms) and to the Sierra Grande rest stop in New Mexico. Sierra Grande is the tallest extinct volcano in New Mexico at 8,723 feet.

That left us with about 325 miles to drive the next day - mostly up and down mountains. It was a pretty day, and we enjoyed some beautiful scenery along the way. We had lunch along the Arkansas River. We stopped at Monarch Pass (11,312 feet) and Bebop found out that a deep snow pile would not support her weight. 

Elena and Paul near Westcliffe, CO

Our lunch spot along the Arkansas River

Monarch Pass - Bebop is playing king of the snow hill
We arrived in Crested Butte by mid-afternoon and settled into our campsite, less than three miles from downtown. 

Our camper van is dwarfed by the mountains

There was a free event the first night. Rebeca Boyle gave a talk about her book "Our Moon: How Earth's Celestial Companion Transformed the Planet, Guided Evolution, and Made Us Who We Are." I'm a science nerd and know a lot about the moon, but she opened up some new and interesting areas of thought about our orbital companion. Here's a review link. Book link.

That evening, a cold rain moved in, and it turned to snow overnight. Very light at our campground, but the hills above us had a fresh white coating the next morning. That morning, Elena had booked a geology Jeep tour. We were unable to go up into the mountains due to the overnight snow, so we headed a bit south and viewed and discussed the local geology from there.

Geology tour overlook

Elena attended the festival for the remainder of the day, while Bebop and I hiked around various local trails. Bebop found a few sticks to chew.

Stick transporter

Stick shredder - that's Crested Butte in the back
That evening, we attended another free talk by Kevin Fedarco, author of "The Emerald Mile: The Epic Story of the Fastest Ride in History Through the Heart of the Grand Canyon." Book LinkHe has a new book out called "A Walk in the Park: The True Story of a Spectacular Misadventure in the Grand Canyon." Book link. His talk covered both books and featured some spectacular photos and video clips.

Kevin and his friend, National Geographic photographer Pete McBride, set out to hike the entire length of the Grand Canyon. It's 277 miles on the river, but due to the difficulty of finding your own hiking path in the heart of the canyon, it became a 750 mile, year long hike. This could have ended as one of those stories of how people died in the Grand Canyon. But instead, he returned with new wisdom and even more reverence for our wild, natural spaces. He met with members of native tribes who have lived in and around the canyon for 10,000 or more years. He saw signs of their minimal impact habitation. And he saw the threats - from the Hualapai skywalk and helicopter tours, to the proposed tourist tram to the confluence of the Little Colorado. He also heard the wisdom of the people who have been stewards of the canyon - and that we should listen to, and learn from, them.

Kevin said in the dark of night the river was below and the river of stars was overhead. One of the things he most remembered was the silence, and how we've lost that in our modern world. And probably the biggest lesson was that we shouldn't just protect the Grand Canyon, but all the natural wild and beautiful places that have somehow managed to evade our constant encroachment and development. The canyon can make people seem insignificant, yet people wield great power to destroy these amazing places.

On our final full day, Bebop and enjoyed an 8-mile hike and some great scenery. It was mostly flat - only about 500 feet of elevation gain.

Crested Butte

Bebop on the trail. The snowy mountains blend into the clouds.

Paul on the trail

- Paul