On day three of our summer 2024 trip, we visited Coronado Historic Site (why do we often name places after the invaders). It’s the site of the once thriving Kuaua Pueblo, until Coronado’s expedition showed up. Coronado was searching for the rumored Seven Gold Cities, but all he kept finding were thriving native cultures - which it could be argued were the actual riches he was seeking. This arrival, which brought diseases and attempted rule, eventually led to the abandonment of many Pueblos. A square Kiva on this site has walls adorned probably the finest pre-Columbian art yet discovered. We were able to climb down into the Kiva to view it.
We only travelled about 40 miles this day, but that distance took us into the beautiful Jemez Mountains, to our $5/night campground along the Jemez River, and out of cell range. Finally, a day to relax and unwind. Our campground (Vista Linda) was nestled in the red rock valley along the Jemez River. I waded, Elena sat, and Bebop swam a little in the refreshing water. The heat dome in the west had their temperature into the low 90s, so the water felt great.
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Our Vista Linda campsite. Views and playing in the Jemez River.
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An afternoon mountain thunderstorm quickly cooled it into the 70s, so we drove up to the historic Gilman Tunnels. The Guadeloupe River cut a vertical canyon through the 1.6 billion-year-old granite, and about 100 years ago humans cut a path for a railroad through the granite. It was originally built to carry timber down from the upper elevations of the mountains - first via rail, then paved for logging trucks. Now it’s a scenic road.
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The Gilman Tunnels - some major granite carving
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The next morning we went to the Walatowa Visitor Center. Walatowa, in the language of the Jemez Pueblo, means “this is the place.” We hiked to a beautiful slot canyon that morning and had the place to ourselves. Bebop chased many lizards. This is a beautiful and accessible slot canyon, and I’m grateful the Jemez nation has laid out a hiking trail and allowed us to visit.  |
Walatowa Slot Canyon
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Walatowa Slot Canyon
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We passed through Jemez Springs, and stopped at the Soda Dam. This travertine mound was formed by the many hot springs in the area, depositing layers of calcium carbonate. Around 1970, road crews blasted a path for a road through it and disrupted the spring that built it. Now it’s slowly disintegrating. The river has cut a slot through the bottom, and it’s a nice area to play in the cool water.
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Soda Dam
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Next we visited the Las Conchas trail for a nice hike along the East Fork of the Jemez River. We then drove to the rim pullouts at Valles Caldera. This area was formed by a massive eruption and lava dome collapse about 1.2 million years ago. We sat watching the storms drift over the verdant valley. A bit of small hail fell from one cloud. We saw an very large herd of elk moving across the valley floor.
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Las Conchas Trail
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Valles Caldera and Elk Herd
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The area along NM highway 4 has a great variety of scenery, terrain, and interesting places to visit.
- Paul
