Maroon Bells and Buckskin Pass

We scored three nights at a rare campsite inside the Maroon Bells wilderness area. Being inside the gate allows you to come and go to Maroon Lake as you please, and we would just drive down to the lake parking lot before dawn and stay there until sunset each day.

The Maroon Bells at sunrise

Eight years ago, when I was about 13% younger, and in at least 20% better shape, I hiked Buckskin Pass in the Maroon Bells wilderness. It’s about a 10-mile round trip, with a 3,000-foot elevation gain all the way up to 12,470 feet of elevation. The pass is taller than the tallest mountain in 38 of the states. It was one of the more difficult hikes I've done. Remember how at the end of the original Rocky movie, Apollo says “Ain’t going to be no rematch,” and Rocky says “I don’t want one.”  Then they fought again later anyway. I decided to hike it again, even though I probably said "no rematch" eight years ago. Also, my daughter went there on a solo hiking trip in June, but had to turn back before the top due to deep snow. I told her I would finish the hike for her.

This time I knew what I was up against. I remembered how hard it was last time. But I also remembered that it’s probably the most beautiful mountain view I've ever seen - if you can make it to the pass. JFK said, “We do these things not because they are easy, but because they are difficult.” I’ll note he didn’t say that while climbing a mountain. I just wanted to see that view again, so off I went.

I departed at 6:30AM when the temperature was a crisp 41ºF, but started peeling off layers like a bawdy stripper before I finished the first mile. When the very vertical section hit, I remembered struggling eight years ago, and stopping often. This time I got into a rhythm that worked for my legs, lungs, and heart - and I was able to keep a slow, but steady pace. It was so peaceful and quiet, all I could hear was my heart beating. I saw no other people for at least 2 hours. The only wildlife I saw was a Pika. There were dappled wildflowers all along the trail, and they all seemed to be either looking at me, or holding their petals up in the air and cheering me on. Also, the sun was at my back, so they might have just been looking that way. Either way, it helped. A few creek crossings also provided a needed enjoyable distraction.

The cute Pika

Encouraging flowers

The air got thinner as I ascended - there’s about 11% less oxygen at 12,000 feet vs 9,000 feet. So much thinner, that I think this sign really meant that there wasn’t enough oxygen to support a flame. 

Low oxygen environment

Just before I left the treeline, I stopped to have a little snack break and finally saw another person come past. After my break, I moved up into the open wildflower meadow. Now, instead of scattered flowers, there was a blanket of flowers. 

The destination and the wildflower meadow

And I looked up to see the switchbacks - almost 1,000 feet for the final push. I could see the destination, which was good, but I could also see how high I had to climb to reach it. The sun was now up enough to produce some sweat, despite the mild temperature. I stopped to catch my breath each time I turned at a switchback. The air was getting very thin. Finally, I made the last turn, and ascended to the saddle in right at 3 hours. Five miles and 3,000 vertical feet. The view to the west was even more beautiful than I remembered. 

I made it!

Mountains to the west of Buckskin Pass

 

Relaxing at Buckskin Pass

The view back to the east of Pyramid. I was above the snow.

I sat down and pulled out some food and enjoyed the best turkey and cheese sandwich I ever ate. The wind began picking up at the saddle. It was coming from the west, and it was cold enough I had to put some layers back on. I watched about 15 backpackers making their way up from the lake to the west. They climbed up and took a break at the pass. I intended to stay about an hour, but at 50 minutes I noticed they were preparing to head down, so I started down just ahead of them. 

The view down was great as the sun began to illuminate Pyramid Peak to the east. 

Pyramid Peak and wildflowers

I took a short detour to visit Crater Lake on my way back down. Then I was back where I started at Maroon Lake.

Crater Lake

Maroon Bells

Here’s my climb and heart rate data.

I’m happy to report no soreness the next day. I got up early and went looking for wildlife around Maroon Lake. In the first 30 yards on the trail I saw fresh wet bear tracks crossing my path. It had crossed from the creek into the aspen trees. I stopped for a bit of looking, but didn’t see it. Then I saw a young moose moving quickly across the meadow ahead. I caught a photo when it stopped to graze.

Meadow Moose

The moose crossed the trail in front of me, entered the lake, and grazed next to the beaver lodge. I had seen the beaver out the evening before swimming and eating. The moose went around the bend of the lake out of sight. I walked down to the area near beaver lodge and stopped, looked, and listened for about 10 minutes. I decided to cautiously proceed down the trail to the bridge, taking one step at a time, followed by a stop, look, and listen. At the bridge and looked around, but didn’t see the moose. A minute later, I turned around, and it was on the trail behind me staring at me with an expression of “You’re in my spot.” I quickly moved across the bridge and the moose crossed the creek in the water, while I moved back across the bridge. It grazed a bit more and headed off into the meadow and trees. That was my episode of “Dances with Moose."

Beaver

Find the moose in each panel

Elena hiked to Crater Lake and saw a fox trying to get handouts from everyone. Later in the day, a fox was in the parking lot next to our camper van. On the last night I finally saw a black bear a bit up the hillside.

Parking lot attendant fox

Black bear

Overall, it was a relaxing 3 days at the Maroon Bells. We were off the grid and taking in the beautiful wildlife and weather. Took one more photo on the last morning before we departed.

Maroon Bells at sunrise

- Paul