Do Look Up

On 2/18 we attended the Star Party at the McDonald Observatory outside of Fort Davis, TX. The first time we came to one of these Star Parties back in 2002 it just took my breath away. This is one of the darkest places in the continental US, and it’s at 6,800 foot elevation, so there isn’t even as much atmosphere to block the view. There were countless stars. The Milky Way looked like someone had taken a paint roller and put a white stripe across the sky. There were a few small meteors that shot across the sky as well.

There were several telescopes along the path to the amphitheater, and each is aimed at something interesting. We saw the following through the various scopes. Two galaxies (M81 and M82) in the Ursa Major (the Big Dipper). M81(Bode’s Galaxy) is a spiral galaxy approximately 11.8 million light-years away, while M82 (Cigar Galaxy) is an irregular galaxy at roughly the same distance from Earth. We saw the Orion Nebula (M42), which is only about 1,350 light-years away and is forming new stars. We zoomed in on the Pleiades (M46) just 410 light years from Earth - and saw there were far more than the 7 naked eye visible stars. Finally, we saw NGC1535, sometimes called the Eye of Cleopatra. It’s a dead star about the size of our sun. It ejected the outer layers into space and has a white dwarf star as a core. Our own sun awaits the same fate - but over 5 billion years from now.

It was cold (upper 30s), but calm, but we were dressed for the occasion. Overnight it dropped to 17ºF at our campsite, but we were in our warm camper van.

I tried my camera's astrophotography mode from our campground picnic table, and it did pretty well.

Night sky - you'll recognize Orion's Belt

You should try to make it out to a Star Party (https://mcdonaldobservatory.org/visitors/programs/evening-programs) and see what you are missing. And Do Look Up.

McDonald Observatory

McDonald Observatory Visitor Center

- Paul

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Bebop - Back on the Trails Again and Blogging

Now that we are out of the National Park, I can hike the trails again and be the leader of my hoomans. At Big Bend Ranch State Park, I visited a rest area Teepee, had a drank from the Rio Grande, and stood on a sand dune.

Teepee rest stop, sand dune, and drinking from the Rio Grande

We hiked a trail called Closed Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park. It wasn’t closed to hoomans or dogs - we just walked right in. The canyon was deep and narrow with a sandy / gravel bottom. Dad let me run around without my leash once we got in the canyon, which was fun. Every so often we would come across an area where the water had carved the rock down, and we would have to climb down. We always made sure we thought we could climb back up on our return. They were all easy for me, but my hoomans had to work a bit on a few of them. It was very pretty. Mom petted some rocks. Finally, we got to an area that had a steep drop-off. There was a sign that said the trail was closed beyond that point. Hence, the name, I guess. We were almost back out of the canyon before we saw a couple of other people coming in.

Follow me in,    Are you coming?    Pick up the pace,    Do you need help up?

Here’s a photo of my hoomans in the canyon with me, and me leading in one of the wider sections.

Waiting on my hoomans to finish taking a photo

I'll lead the way

 Then we saw some hoodoos and a balanced rock. Once again, I took the opportunity to stand in the Rio Grande and have a drink of water.

We drove for a while to a town called Fort Davis and camped in the Davis Mountains State Park. My hoomans went to a Star Party, but dogs weren’t allowed, so they’ll have to tell you about it. I slept in the van, which was comfortable despite temperatures outside in the upper 30s. They came back and joined me before 10pm. Then we all went to sleep on a cold night in our warm Bebopabago camper van (https://enerjazz.com/travato/).

- Bebop

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Big Bend - The West End

Cottonwood campground, on the west side of Big Bend NP, is a small campground - just 17 sites. It sits on the bank of the Rio Grande and just 8 miles from the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon. We reserved the best site - #17 right next to the group campsite - provided the group site is empty, which it was while we were there, except for the dozen javelina which grazed there several times during the day and night. It was a quiet evening. During the first night we heard a very large pack of coyotes loudly celebrating. The next morning I found some small remaining evidence of the former rabbit they were enjoying. I also watched the moon set into Santa Elena Canyon that morning.

Moon set into the Santa Elena Canyon mouth

On 2/16 We headed down to the beautiful Santa Elena Canyon, that I like to think is named for my lovely wife Elena. Boquillas was nice, but Santa Elena is even more impressive. The Rio Grande has carved a 1,500 foot vertical slice right through the rock. You can wade through Terlingua Creek, then hike in about 0.8 miles until you run out of edge to walk on. Back in 2002 we rafted through the entire canyon. The water was low then, but it’s far lower now.

Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend NP

We visited some old ruins of farms that gave it a try back in the 1920s. Many lasted for a decade or two by pumping water from the river. Now they are just historical sites. The weather has been mild so far. We’ve been in the low 30s or upper 20s most nights, with sunny highs in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. Last night only cooled to the mid 50s, and we were in the upper 80s today, though with only 10% relative humidity. 

This afternoon we watched the roadrunners and the dozen javalina eat and play around our campsite, then took a nice siesta. wildlife wildlife1 

The squadron of 12 javelina (peccary) at our campsite.

Roadrunners at our campsite

 

As we were taking our evening walk, a man from Boston asked us where the Rio Grande was and if the water flowing beside our camp site fed into it. He was quite shocked when we told him that narrow, shallow stream of water along our campsite IS the Rio Grande. 

On 2/17 we began the drive out of the national park. We made one more hike, the 5-mile round trip hike to the Chimneys. These volcanic formations just poke up out of the ground. There is a great view of the Santa Elena Canyon slot for most of the way down. We found some petroglyphs and an old shelter area built into one of the chimneys. A cool front came in overnight, and it was sunny and about 60ºF for our hike.

The chimneys hike in Big Bend NP

We headed out of the park into the towns of Terilingua / Study Butte. We cooked all our meals in the van for the first week, so we enjoyed a delicious BBQ meal in old Terlingua. Finally, we headed into Big Bend Ranch State Park where our primitive campsite awaited in Lower Medera Canyon. Adjacent to the campsite is a rest stop with some teepees. We recognized them from our trip 20 years ago through here and did a few Then and Now photos. We had to reverse direction due to the sun angle, and Kendall wasn’t here, but we did our best.

- Paul

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Big Bend - Rio Grande Village

On our full day (2/14/22) at Rio Grande Village (RGV) in Big Bend NP we took a couple of outings. We hiked into Boquillas Canyon in the morning. The river has sliced a narrow path through at least 1,000 foot high rock. You can’t even see the narrow canyon entrance until you are very close. We arrived to find two other cars in the lot and both couples were exiting the trail. We had the canyon to ourselves - at least from tourists. On every trail near the river, there are little souvenir shops set up along the trails. People come across the river and set up these honor system sales booths with a pay bucket. None of them were staffed, until we arrived a the canyon. There were about 8 people and several stations. Two of them had ridden their horses over. One was a young child who ran up to us sporting a great smile and displaying the handmade necklaces. Most of the items are jewelry or small animals shaped out of wire. Some had embroidered items or t-shirts. One was selling chicken tamales. They were all nice people just trying to make some money, but I really prefer my parks and trails to be vendor free. We saw many border patrol vehicles over the past few days - most of them just driving around in their cars. 

We hiked into Boquillas Canyon until the river met the vertical walls. Elena found some interesting rocks. The river water was very clear. Bebop took a nap in the van. 

In the afternoon we went to a natural hot springs on the river. It was a big resort a century ago. There is an old hall, house, and even motel where people used to drive down to enjoy the hot springs. They even have a huge palm growing, which was obviously imported and planted. The only remaining functioning item is the most important - the spring and the rock area built to contain the hot water. The water comes out at 105ºF, so the pool is generally around 100ºF - like a nice hot bath that never cools down. You can just slide over the rock wall into the river and swim, too - or wade across into Mexico. This happened to be Valentine's Day and this was probably the best gift I could have given Elena as she loves being in water. 

The old springs ruins

Natural hot springs along the Rio Grande

We hiked on the nature trail adjacent to our campsite and took some lovely sunset photos of the Sierra del Carmen range and the Chisos mountains. 

Sunset from the natural trail adjacent to our camp site in Rio Grande Village, Big Bend NP

On Tue (2/15) we crossed the park and moved from the eastern end to the western end. We made a quick stop in the Chisos Basin along the way. I’ve been to Chisos a couple of times, and it was busier, so we didn’t stay too long. We headed to the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, which led to the Cottonwood Campground. We hiked the Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff and Tuff Canyon, and made the obligatory stop at Mule Ears. Who wore them better - Kendall in 2002 or Paul in 2022?

 

Mule Ears - 20 years apart

Bebop can't go on National Park trails, so you'll have to put up with my blogging until she can get back on the trail with us and write some more. 

 - Paul

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Seminole Canyon to Big Bend NP

Before we departed Seminole Canyon, we took an archeologist guided tour of one of the overhang shelters that had been used for thousands of years. The Pecos style wall paintings were fascinating, as was learning about the way people survived in this desert environment for hundreds of generations. The cave art dates from around 4000 - 1000 years old. Our archeologist (Jack) didn’t try to tell us what it meant. He could tell us what he thought they meant. He could tell us figures and shapes that were common across the region. But what the figures and colors meant could only be truly known by the people that drew them and the culture they lived in. Here’s a modern day sculpture at the visitors center.

Here is the shelter and are a few of the most interesting drawings: 

From our campsite in Seminole Canyon, we could look SW and see the mountains of Big Bend. They were about 100 miles away, and it was a 220-mile drive to get there. Along the way we stopped in the town of Sanderson where Elena’s grandparents met back in the early 1930s. Here’s Elena in front of the high school (Sanderson High School) where her grandfather taught after he graduated from college. 

We arrived at Big Bend and went to our first campsite at Rio Grande Village. A javelina strolled past within minutes of our arrival. We took an evening walk along the nature trail down to the Rio Grande and watched the sunset on Sierra del Carmen Mountains near Boquillas. (RGV1-002 and 004)

Looking back at the Chisos Mountains from the Rio Grande

Sunset on the Sierra del Carmen Mountains

 

 I'm posting this connected to the Wifi at the Rio Grande Village Store - the only connection to the outside world. No cell or other signals out here.

- Paul

 

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Bebop - Back in the Bebopabago

I got worried this week when my hoomans started gathering their stuff. They went to Florida without me last month, and I don't care for that - even if I get to stay with the best neighbor in the world. I followed dad out on every trip to the van and jumped in to secure my spot. I was happy when they carried my bowls and stuff out to the van. We are off on a long trip all the way to Death Valley. The name doesn't seem like very good marketing, but dad said that's why we are going in winter.

Our first day was a lot of driving down to a little town called Sonora, TX. On our way dad stopped in Lipan, TX to top off the propane tank. It was showing about 3/4 full, but propane (and propane accessories via Hank Hill) would be scarce in many of our stops the first week. The lady who helped us was a very nice hooman. The tank didn't quite take a gallon, and she said there would be no charge. Dogs can judge people, and I liked her.

We made it to Sonora for an overnight rest stop. We stopped at a place called Stadium Park. It was a trailer/RV park next to the local HS stadium. A very nice man named Mike got us set up in a spot. He even had a friendly cat. After we left Sonora, we stopped at a crossing of Devils River. It's a wild and scenic river in a very empty part of the state. It was pretty.

Devils River

Today we are in Seminole Canyon State Park. State Parks let me hike the trails, so I like them. Dad said this park had hooman habitation over 10,000 years ago. They left many large drawings on the walls of the rock shelters along the canyon. One pictograph was a mountain lion, and the drawing was over 10 feet long. I hope that wasn't actual scale! 

Mountain Lion (also named as a Panther) wall art - 10 feet across

We hiked to the Rio Grande. I could see Mexico. It looks the same as the US - you hoomans are all the same species, so I don't understand why you try to divide into subgroups. There weren't many hoomans on the trail, but I was awe-inspiring. Every time we passed someone they would look and me and say "Awww . . how cute."

Scenes along Seminole Canyon

Bebop leads the way to the Rio Grande.

In the morning, mom and dad go on a ranger guided tour of a large set of pictographs. Dogs aren't allowed on that tour, so I will take a nap. Our Rio Grande hike was 8 miles round trip, so I am tired. 

We burned some calories today

Next, we'll be on our way to Big Bend National Park for four nights.

-Bebop

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Everglades and Florida Keys - without the camper van

We recently took a trip without Bebop or the Bebopabago. It came about because way back in Dec 2019 (pre-COVID) we booked a trip on The Jazz Cruise for Jan of 2021. We've been on 5 Jazz Cruises over the past decade, and it's a great trip. They charter an entire cruise ship and sign up over 100 of the best jazz musicians in the world. There are three parallel stages going on almost around the clock. The 2021 cruise was obviously cancelled due to COVID, but things were looking hopeful for Jan of 2022. Then Omicron arrived. With less than 2 weeks before departure, they cancelled the cruise. We rolled our payment over and will try again in Jan of 2023.

We already had air tickets to Miami, Florida. They were on Southwest, so we could have just used the credit for a future flight,  but we decided to go on a short vacation instead. The fares had dropped to just $98 RT, so we still have some future credit for other flights. We decided to visit the Everglades National Park and the Florida Keys.

After a few trips in our camper van, I can certainly compare and contrast camper van travel with our prior method of fly/car rental/hotels or tent camping. The flying type seems like a bit of pain now by comparison. There's driving to the airport, parking, getting to the terminal, dealing with security, then packing everyone in a metal tube. It all went smoothly on our way out and mostly smooth on the return trip. The security in Miami was a bit chaotic, but our plane only had 30 people on it, so that was nice. Rental cars have become easier over the years with apps that aim you directly to your car, but it's another set of steps. Then there is the hotel check in and schlepping all the gear in and out from the car. Yes, the camper van takes longer to get somewhere, but the adventure is sometimes in the travel, not just the destination. And all your stuff is right there with you in the van. Check in to campgrounds is crazy quick, and check out is even easier - just drive away. Free boondocking sites are even simpler, with no interaction needed. And while it's fun to eat out in a restaurant sometimes, it's very pleasant to have all the food and prep equipment in the camper van, so you don't have to eat out ALL the time. The two methods are definitely different approaches to travel.

On to the vacation. On our first full day, we visited the southern part of the Everglades NP and drove the ~50 miles each way down to Flamingo and back. We stopped at several trail hikes along the way. The first was the most interesting. The parking lot looked like they were hosting a vulture convention. The vultures apparently like to pick at the rubber on vehicle door seals and windshield wipers. They provide tarps you can cover your car with, but the vultures seem to be able to remove those and pick away. We took turns hiking the short trails and keeping the vultures from descending on our car. Other cars were swarmed.

The trails were nice. We saw a fair amount of birds and enjoyed the Gumbo Limbo trail and the trees that the trail is named after. We stopped a several ponds and trails, but had no gator sightings. We did see a good variety of birds. At Flamingo, we did spot one manatee bobbing around in the boat dock area. Our day was cut short by the cold front coming through with wind and rain - and even a tornado about 30 miles from us.

Ghostly cypress trees, a pelican floating, palm jazz hands, and parking lot vultures.

 
The next day we drove down to the Florida Keys. We stopped at a few State Parks for some geology, hiking, and kayaking. We stayed at a hotel in Marathon, FL. I haven't mentioned the weather, but after the front came through, the highs were around 70ºF and the lows were around 60ºF - very pleasant. 

Elena inspecting geology. The keys are a layer of fossilized coral reef limestone.

Kayaking through the bays and mangroves

 

We drove into Key West for most of a day. We walked around the town and had a lobster roll for lunch, where we were joined by a couple of the town's numerous feral chickens. That evening we went on a snorkeling, dolphin watching, sunset cruise. Elena was the snorkeling champ on the boat. The water was about 69ºF - too cold for me, but she enjoyed it. She saw some coral, but no major large animal sightings. The dolphins also proved elusive that day - but the sunset was nice. I also may have had a few sliced of Key Lime pie on the trip. Delicious, and it reminded me of my mom. She always cooked all our meals, but rarely cooked dessert. The one thing I remember her making, and enjoying, was Key Lime pie.

Snorkeling and sunset

On our final day, we took one more shot at wildlife sighting in the Everglades. This time we visited the Shark Valley area in the northern part of the park. This is where all the animals were! We literally got tired of seeing large alligators, there were so many. They were just laying right next to the trail. The ranger said they are not lazy - just very energy efficient. They only expend energy when absolutely necessary. I may have to edit my book The Joy of Efficiency to add a salute to alligators. We also saw the rare crocodile - who was very large. The everglades is the only place in the world that alligators and crocodiles coexist. 

Gators, baby gators, and a crocodile

 
We took a 2-hour tram tour and leaned a lot from the onboard biologist/naturalist. The everglades is not a swamp. It's a very, very slow moving, wide and shallow river over a large limestone ledge. The water, filtered by the grasses and plants, is pristine and clear. Hammocks are areas of high limestone where hardwood trees are able to get a footing and grow. Most of the everglades is great swaths of sawgrass.

Sawgrass and the slow moving wide river

We also saw a wide variety of birds in the park - great blue herons, blue herons, green herons, anhingas, egrets, ibis, wood stork, purple gallinules, and more. We did not see the most destructive introduced species in the park - the Burmese Python, though it might be argued that people are the most destructive species on the planet. People trafficked and eventually released the pythons in south Florida.

- Paul

 

 

 

A few birds

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