Geology, Caves, and Rocks

Today was a fairly short drive distance, but it was packed with activities. We said farewell to a pronghorn near our campsite and departed the campground at Flaming Gorge. We took the drive around the sheep creek geological loop. They do a great job of posting signs as you move into different rock layer areas. The uplift and erosion in this area present a dazzling array of geology. The distant views were still marred by smoke and haze, but we managed to get a few decent close up photos. Elena loves geology, and she was staring out the window with delight. 

On the Sheep Creek Geological Loop

Elena loves rocks

Then we went down to the road to find the longest cave in Utah - Little Brush Creek Cave. Elena also loves caves. This cave is only 1/4 mile off the highway, but no one knows about it and there was no one there but us. There are three entrances, and two of them involve scrambling down a very steep ravine with many loose rocks. We made it to the third entrance, which was more accessible, and went in (with the bear spray on my hip). It was very cool in there, and Bebop was sniffing the scent trails of many local animals.

Heading into the unknown

Elena bravely enters the cave

 
Then we took another very long dirt (and occasional washboard) road out to Fantasy Canyon. This is a very odd set of rocks eroded into strange patterns by wind and rain. Another couple was leaving as we arrived, so we had the whole place to ourselves. We're doing a great job of isolating from the unvaccinated - and the vaccinated for that matter. 

Fantasy Canyon was one of the most unusual areas I've visited. It's a fairly compact area, and you can roam up and down a few channels to see the bizarre rock formations. As we were driving out, we were treated to a mom pronghorn and two children racing fast across the terrain.

At Fantasy Canyon

Wonderland of rocks

Silly sand gone wild

Lookout rock with a crown

Wild details

Elena reaches out and touches

- Paul

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Weeks on the Road Together - How's That Going?

The longest vacation we've taken while we were working was 3 weeks. We just began week 4 of this vacation, and we have two weeks to go. So how is it going, you ask?

Very well. With this camper van, Elena and I spend almost every hour together - usually just a few feet apart. At home, we can move to separate rooms or even floors for various tasks and chores, so there is natural separation time. Elena is an easy person to get along with, and she recognizes when I'm tired and/or hungry late in the afternoon and is patient with me. I try to help her with things she won't normally ask for help with - from pumping up the SUP to carrying it down a steep embankment to the lake. If anything, this time together is making a great marriage even better.

In a stream at Glacier NP

We've both had an oops or two on the trip. My worst one was when I didn't get the septic tube far enough down into the hole and, when she pulled the black tank valve, out came our waste products onto the tank apron. My bad, though I'm blaming a gravity wave near the Yellowstone caldera for that. Later that same day, we had purchased groceries, and she was going to load them in the fridge while I took Bebop for a quick walk near the parking lot. I was coming back to the van and saw the awning deploying with one end slamming repeatedly into a light pole. The motor was whirring and straining, and the awning was bending. I threw open the door and hit the awning "in" button. She had accidentally bumped it and deployed it. It's OK and working just fine.

And Bebop has adjusted perfectly. She was a little off the first couple of days and wouldn't eat much. Now she knows the routine and has been a pleasure to travel with. She does keep wanting to drive - she loves to jump in the driver's seat.

You two behave back there, or I'll turn this van around right now!

We've only eaten things we cooked in the van for three weeks, so we splurged and ate at a restaurant on Saturday (8/7). It was barbecue, which we haven't had on the trip - and it was delicious. Tomorrow night (8/9) we have another treat planned. I had some hotel points that were about to expire, so we got a free hotel room at the TownPlace Suites in Vernal, UT. Luxurious living!

The worst thing about the trip has been the constant haze the past two weeks. The climate change induced heat and mega drought in the southwest might mean hazy and smoky skies are the normal for many favorite summer destinations. 

- Paul

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Camper Variety

A new hobby of mine has been to bike or walk around the campgrounds and observe the great variety of tents, trailers, and motor homes. If it wouldn't look so creepy, I could take many photos of interesting setups.

Tents
I've spotted a few similar to the old canvas tent with the exterior pole skeleton than people had when I was a kid. Now, there are a million varieties. There is the small backpacker tent, the medium-sized tent, and some really large tents and even portable screened patio setups. There are a fair number of tents mounted on vehicle roofs or truck beds as well - with little collapsible ladders to access them. The odd one that we've seen are these small vertical structures - like a wire frame Porta Potty. We had to do a Google search and found many of these pop up tents. They advertise many functions, but I'm not sure what people are actually using them for. They cost around $100 and look like a little campsite guard shack.

The pop up Porta Potty, Shower, Changing Room, Waffle Maker, . . .

Trailers
The variety of pull behind trailers is immense. Some of them look like a two-story house. When they add the pop out sides, the look like a condo complex. Others are super compact and aerodynamic. We've even seen a few of the old pop up trailer type. And generally, the bigger the trailer, the more massive the vehicle is that's towing them. Some of those super max trucks and SUVs probably cost as much as our entire camper van - trailer not included.

The best part about the trailers is watching them try to back into sites. Some people are exceptionally skilled at it. Then there is everyone else. Bebop and I were walking a couple of nights ago and watching a guy try for over 30 minutes to back into his site. He had helpers behind and on the side, all waving in random hand gestures and commands, and he still couldn't figure it out. Having a big audience of other campers watching just adds to the fun. That was two nights ago, and he still may be trying to get into the site. 

Motor Homes
For campers with their own engine, there are three classes: A, B, C. 

 The class A are the big boxy motor homes. And some of them are big. With the advent of the pop out sides, they are bigger than many residences. New York apartment dwellers would love that much space. Many of them tow a smaller vehicle behind, so they insure low single digit MPG. 

The Class C are the units that have a front end like a van or truck, but have the boxy cab built onto them. They often have a stub that overhangs the front of the vehicle (usually a sleeping space).

We have a Class B, which is commonly called a Camper Van. It's built on a van chassis - often a Mercedes Sprinter, RAM Promaster, or Ford Transit. They are the smallest and most nimble. Ours is on the RAM Promaster 3500 chassis with a 6-cylinder engine. At under 21' long it can get around in town and park in a regular parking space. 

Our Winnebago Travato (2022 KL model) feels very spacious inside, and has all the modern conveniences. We have a toilet (with bidet), shower, microwave, convection oven, induction cook top, sink, refrigerator/freezer, two single beds with a connector that makes them larger than a queen bed. For entertainment, we have a TV and Bluetooth soundbar, but we haven't turned it on much. We have double pane windows, which insulate well and cut down on noise. We have an 18 gallon fresh water tank, and a black and gray tank that are both 12 gallons. The 12.8kW battery pack will run us for days and charges quickly while driving (and tops off with solar on the roof). The water and space heater can work on various combinations of propane and electric. We've been disconnected for days with no issues. We're averaging over 16 MPG, even with all the mountainous terrain we've driven. I'm posting my data at https://enerjazz.com/travato. 

For two people and a dog, it's a perfect travel vehicle.

- Paul

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A New Career?

 Last night, we stayed at a boondocking site in the high desert, and we were so isolated that Dad and Mom let me free-range. Whee! No more being tied with a string to their slow two-legged speeds.

I sniffed around the rabbitbrush (no rabbits, alas) and stuck my nose down numerous critter holes. All I turned up were a few tiny chipmunks. But it got me thinking: maybe I've spent too many years as a stay-at-home dog. I could be a wily coyote! I could be a pocket-sized wolf, ranging across the prairie, drinking from puddles and chewing sticks across the wild west.

Or I could follow my other secret dream, which is to be a wood sculptor. I could chew branches, twigs and roots into shapes that other dogs from miles around would come to admire. Fresh-chewed toothpicks! Abstract figures! Come for the novelty, stay to admire the workmanship!

Right now, of course, being at the mercy of the hoomans, I'm back on my princess seat in the Bebopabago, riding off to whatever destination they picked next. Stay tuned for news of my new career, once I decide for sure and begin to hire staff. (First, I'll need a better social media manager, that's for sure.) 

Woof! 

- Bebop

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Weather - Haze and Hail

Escaping the July and August heat and humidity of Dallas was one of Elena's major goals when we ordered the camper van. Therefore, we chose to run up and down the spine of the Rockies over 5 weeks. In general, we've had good weather for the trip. It was hot (but dry heat) in a few places that were down around 3,000 ft elevation, but it still cooled off nicely at night. Our large battery pack allows us to run the A/C for many hours, so we've been very comfortable for the entire trip. 

Some nights it got into the lower 40s outside, but the van stayed above 60ºF inside with no heating. Last night, as we end week three, was the coldest night. It dropped to 38ºF outside overnight. The van temperature only fell to 53ºF without any heat on, which is much warmer than inside the tents I see outside our windows. I tested the heater out this morning - mostly because it needed to be tested for a bit anyway. It worked well with a mix of propane and electricity from the battery pack.

The constant weather story has been the smoke and haze from all the wildfires in the west. The second and third week of our trip has been hazy the entire time. The mountains all look like they are doing an impression of the Smoky Mountains. 

The sun setting behind the haze obscured Tetons

We did see some rain in the panhandle of Texas and NW Colorado. The CO rain gave us our first weather adventure as we almost got stranded on a dirt road that turned to slick slime (see previous post Adventure . . . Abort). Recently we had our most interesting 24 hours of weather. We were camped at Henrys Lake State Park in Idaho, just west of Yellowstone. Friday (Aug 6) evening, some collapsing storms sent out fierce, sustained winds. We had to remove our exterior windshield cover lest it suffer the fate of a nearby tent that relocated far across the campground. We watched a motorized boat on the lake really struggle to get back to the dock. The silver lining was some clearing of the smoke haze by the storms.

Post storm clouds over Henrys Lake, ID

I wanted to get up early the next morning and beat the crowds into Yellowstone. I was up early - with blowing rain, thunder, a little hail, tornado warnings, and fierce winds. We waited until it settled and headed to the park. The crowds were muted a bit by the weather, but it was drizzling and 50ºF with a strong wind in the morning. We basked in the warmth of some geyser mist. It turned nice in the afternoon - up into the 60s. 

Before we left Yellowstone, we checked the radar for our 100-mile drive south. It was clear. As we exited Yellowstone, I saw dark skies to the south, and Elena tried to check the radar. No signal on AT&T or Verizon. As we entered Grand Teton NP, it got really ominous looking. She got enough signal to load a single radar frame and there were red cells ahead, but we didn't know which way they were moving. She was able to load the weather warning, and we realized we would intersect it. I looked for a pullout to turn around and, just as we found one, the hail started falling. The pellets were small, but it was almost a whiteout. We pulled into the Jackson Lake Lodge area and tried to get partially under a tree. The ground was white and rivers of slush were flowing across the road. 

Hail piling up on the road

It finally stopped, and we made it to our campground for the night. For most of the trip, we've had good weather, but it can get interesting pretty fast.

- Paul

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Bebop Blogging on Cool Water

I’m really enjoying this Bebopabago van that my people bought for me. I have tasted sticks and smelled things in 6 different states. There is a greater variety of stick flavors than I could have imagined. I’ve met a lot of nice people and dogs in the campgrounds. I’ve seen and smelled many new animals. I got to splash in a cold mountain stream and a cool mountain lake. it was fun - my hoomans should install one of these cool water streams at our house.

Splashing in cold streams is fun

I like to sit in the driver's seat and pretend I'm driving the van. Some nights I curl up and sleep in the seat, but I usually climb in the bed with dad before dawn. I’ve settled into a good routine. I like to hike on the trails, but some parks don’t allow dogs, so my parents put me in the van with the air conditioner running to keep me cool and safe. I just take a nap and jump up when I hear the door unlock.

I have my own window while we are driving, and I have seen a lot of new scenery. We are the farthest distance from home now and will be working our way back down through the Rocky Mountains. I’m really enjoying the cooler weather. 

 

Sampling new stick flavors

My parents brought my food nuggets from home, and I pretend like I don’t want them until after I get to lick their plates clean. I offered to do some pot licking for a lady who was washing her supper dishes at a faucet, but she didn’t take me seriously. I can clean a pot back to its factory finish. 

My hoomans have to pick up my poop and it reminds me of the old Seinfeld joke: "I always see people walking their dogs along with their little poop bags, which to me is just the lowest function of human life. If aliens are watching this through telescopes, they're gonna think the dogs are the leaders."

I built a rock cairn in this lake

- Bebop

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Big Hike and A Hit Song

After I retired five years ago, I had ramped up my hiking. Then COVID hit and cut down on trips. About a year ago, I began battling some foot issues that limited my track training and conditioning. I began to have doubts about what I could do anymore. Like anything, confidence builds with success, and I’ve just not had much opportunity to build that in the past 18 months. 

I had searched out some great hikes in advance and needed to make a plan on which one to tackle. A few of my choices were closed due to increased bear activity along those trails. Ice Lake and the Ptarmigan Tunnel were two of those that were off limits. I considered the Highline Trail, but it’s logistically difficult and crowded with tourists. After getting to Two Medicine, we decided to just hang here for several days and avoid traffic and crowds. I selected No Name Lake trail, which departs from our campground. It shows about 5 miles each way horizontally and 1,300 vertical feet. I decided I would tackle it early in the morning while it was cool.

I woke up about 5:30AM on Sunday (8/1) and lay in the bed. It was in the 50’s outside, the low 60’s in the van, and I had Elena snuggling on one side and Bebop cuddled up on the other. I lay there and thought about if I wanted to get up and do the hike, or if I could even complete the hike. Doubt and comfort doubled the gravitational force on my body. But the mountains were calling and I must go. Elena had already decided not to join me because it featured two of her dislikes: mornings and vertical hiking. I walked Bebop and had a quick breakfast, then packed up and walked to the trailhead. When I got there at 6:45AM, I could see there was likely no one else on the trail yet. A couple of face fulls of overnight spider strings was my first clue. 

I did a few things that you should NOT do when in an area with bears and mountain lions:

1. Hiked at dawn.

2. Hiked alone.

3. Didn’t bring my good camera, which almost guarantees a large animal sighting.

I did do a few things to improve my safety:

1. I had bear spray, though I’m not sure if it’s bear repellant or something like Axe Body Spray that manly bears would want to use.

2. This area has a very thick tree canopy, which limits the growth of food sources for bears - so there aren’t as many in this area.

3. I sang songs along the way, so animals would hear me coming, and I wouldn’t surprise them.

What did I sing? I went with some jazz greats: Resolution, Birdland, Corner Pocket, Spain, (Basie), A Warm Breeze, Why Not, and even one of my own compositions which was a hit on mp3.com in the late 90’s. I sometimes sang the music, and sometimes sang the vocalese lyrics. Sometimes I just scatted. A good singer might attract wildlife, but I’m certain my singing had the opposite effect. It was working because I had seen zero other people or animals larger than a chipmunk for most of the way. The trail is fairly flat for about 3.5 miles, then it’s vertical. You might think I would save the ballads for the steep section, but any musician knows it takes more breath control to play a ballad. I was doing a mix of panting and scatting. Near the top a grouse suddenly fluttered up out of the brush next to me. That got my heart rate up, and he requested I sing Birdland again. As I became a little oxygen depleted, I was just making up nonsense songs. I had just sang out “I hope there’s not a bear on the loose, or mountain lion, or wayward moose,” when the first people I would see rounded the corner right in front of me. It was a couple who had backpacked and camped at the lake and were on their way back down. They were kind enough not to laugh where I could hear them. I was less than 1/2 mile from the lake at that point. 

I finally made it to No Name Lake and there was no one there but me. There were a few tents at the far north end, but I didn’t see anyone stirring yet. It was beautiful and serene. I sat there for about 20 minutes, enjoying a snack and watching the fish and scenery. 

No Name Lake - Mountains too large to capture with camera

Pondering at No Name Lake

Then I headed back down. It was a while before I saw anyone, but then I saw about 10 people over less than a mile. After I passed a trail intersection, I didn’t see anyone again for a long time. Those 10 had taken the 8AM boat across the lake and cut out about 2.5 miles each way. I was hiking all the way along the lake. I made it back to the trailhead in under 4 hours and, to my delight, found Elena and Bebop sitting on a bench looking at the scenery. It felt great and am ready to tackle bigger challenges again.

Note the vertical climb is all compressed into one section

I got back to the van and slipped on my swim trunks and water shoes, then headed to the lake where I stood in the ice-cold water all the way up to the top of my thighs. It was the best therapy ever - nature for my well-being, and ice water for my tired muscles.

Post hike ice water leg soak

 

Watch for my new hit single "Wayward Moose."  

- Paul

 

 

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